Shea Butter, From Tree to Jar

Shea butter has become a household name in skincare aisles worldwide. But long before it reached shelves, it was a staple of West African daily life, used to moisturize skin, protect hair, season food and soothe babies and elders alike.

The shea belt

Shea butter comes from the nuts of the shea tree, Vitellaria paradoxa, which grows wild across a broad band of African savanna stretching from West Africa toward the east of the continent. The trees take many years to mature and typically grow in the wild, not on plantations. In many communities, women traditionally gather the fallen fruit, and the work of making shea butter has long been a major source of income for them. This is why shea is sometimes nicknamed women's gold.

How traditional shea butter is made

The process is hands-on. Women collect the fruit, remove the pulp and boil the nuts, then dry them in the sun. The dried kernels are cracked, roasted and ground into a paste. The paste is then kneaded with water until the fat separates and rises, and it is skimmed, boiled to purify and left to set. The result is a creamy, ivory-to-yellow butter with a distinctive nutty aroma.

Unrefined or refined?

Unrefined shea retains its natural color and scent, and many people prefer it for the most traditional feel. Refined shea is processed to be paler and nearly odorless, which suits people who dislike the scent or are blending it into formulas. Neither is right or wrong. Choose based on texture, aroma and how it feels on your skin.

How to use it

Shea is rich, so a little goes a long way. Warm a small amount between your palms and press it onto damp skin to seal in moisture. Use it on elbows, knees and heels, on dry ends of hair or twists, and on lips in the cooler months. If you have very oily or acne-prone skin, test it on a small area first.

Buying responsibly

Look for sellers who are transparent about where their shea comes from and who pay the women who make it fairly, ideally buying directly from cooperatives. A jar of shea that supports a community is a small act with real impact. And remember, this is general advice, not medical guidance. If you have a skin condition or concern, ask a dermatologist.